The Complete Guide to Hiking the Kumano Kodo Trail

Kumano Kodo is a network of trails that lead to three sacred sites — Kumano Hongu Taisha, Kumano Hayatama Taisha and Kumano Nachi Taisha, that are collectively known as Kumano Sanzan. All the trails converge on the Kumano Hongu Taisha, that is considered the most significant of the three Kumano shrines.

The network of trails has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site on account of its scenic beauty and its historic and cultural importance. The Kumano Kodo is widely considered one of the greatest pilgrimages that travelers can join.

Much of the hiking route passes through mountains covered with dense forests of towering Japanese cedars, sweet-smelling camphor trees, and bamboo groves. The forests are criss-crossed by numerous mountain streams and waterfalls, including the Nachi Waterfall, the tallest single drop waterfall in Japan.

The Yunomine Onsen, a system of hot springs revered for its therapeutic properties, and reputed to have been in use for over 1,800 years, is also located within the network of trails. The Tsuboyu Bath located at this onsen is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is a tradition among the pilgrims to take a dip in the hot springs as a preparation for the visit to the sacred site at Kumano Hongu Taisha.

The Kumano Kodo is one of only two pilgrimages recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site, with the Camino de Santiago in France and Spain being the other.

The trail is visited both by pilgrims for spiritual reasons, and by hiking enthusiasts looking to connect with nature. Each year, an estimated 15 million people visit the various sites scattered throughout the region.

The Kumano Kodo is located in the Kii peninsula, which is situated on the eastern edge of Honshu, the largest Japanese island. Honshu is also where Tokyo and Kyoto are located, however, the Kumano region is far away from these metropolises.

The trail itself, along with the shrines, are spread out across the Wakayama and the Mie prefectures in the southeastern tip of the Kii peninsula. The region is mountainous and faces the Pacific Ocean. The thickly forested Kii mountain range, with elevations ranging from 1,000 to 2,000m covers the region.

Because of their proximity to the Pacific Ocean, the mountains receive heavy rainfall of up to 3,000 mm each year, which in turn feeds plenty of rivers, streams, and waterfalls in the mountain ranges. This is imparted to the mountains a serene and beautiful environment, which has led to them being revered since prehistoric times.

The Kumano Kodo trails are located at approximately 34°N latitude and 136°6″E longitude.

The towns of Kumano and Tanabe are the closest towns to the shrines.

Fun Fact: The famous Japanese bookstore chain, Books Kinokinya takes its name from the Kii province, its name literally translating to “bookstore of the Kii province”. It is the largest chain of bookstores in Japan, and you are likely to encounter it in most Japanese cities. It also has outlets in Taiwan, Singapore, Australia, and the US.

The town of Tanabe in the Wakayama prefecture serves as the gateway to the Kumano Kodo Trail. It is also referred to as Kii-Tanabe, to differentiate it from another Tanabe town located further to the north.

Since the Kii peninsula is covered by mountains, the access points are limited to the coast, which is where Kii-Tanabe is situated. It is connected to other Japanese cities by both a highway and a rail network.

Takijiri, located 15 kms from Kii-Tanabe is traditionally considered the starting point of the Kumano Kodo, especially the Nakahechi route.

Those wanting to visit the Kumano Hongu Taisha shrine can start their trek from Hongu, which is a one-hour bus journey from Kii-Tanabe. The famous Yunomine Onsen and the Tsuboyu Bath are located on this route.

Either way, Kii-Tanabe would be your starting point, whether you start from Tajikiri and take the Nakahechi route, or start from Hongu to visit the Kumano Hongu Taisha.

By Air

The nearest international airport to Kii-Tanabe is the Kansai International Airport in Osaka, located 106 kms to the north.

This airport, in turn, has direct flights from several important international destinations including Los Angeles/San Francisco, Vancouver, Honolulu, Guam, Paris, Amsterdam, Munich, Dubai, Bangkok, Taipei, Cairns (Australia), to name a few.

It is the third-busiest airport in Japan.

The nearest domestic airport to Kii-Tanabe is the Nanki Shirahama airport in Shirahama, which has daily flights from Tokyo, and is located only 11 kms from the Kii-Tanabe bus station. The flying time from Tokyo to Shirahama is a little over an hour.

Getting from the Nanki-Shirahama airport to the Shirahama bus or train station can take up to 20 minutes.

From Shirahama, visitors can take a bus to the Kii-Tanabe bus station.

By Rail

Kii-Tanabe is well-connected to other major Japanese cities by rail.

Those starting from Tokyo can take the JR Tokaido Shinkasen from Tokyo to Shin-Osaka. This train ride takes between 2.5 to 3 hours. Those arriving from Kyoto can also take the JR train from Kyoto to Shin-Osaka.

The train journey from Osaka further on to Kii-Tanabe takes a little over two hours and costs around 6,000 Yen on the JR Limited Express.

Another route to reach Kii-Tanabe is to take the train from Wakayama city to Kii-Tanabe, a 70-minute journey. Wakayama, in turn, is connected by train to Osaka, and Nagoya.

The Japan Rail Pass and the JR Kansai Wide Area Pass are valid on these train journeys. These rail passes are meant for foreign tourists who can undertake unlimited rail journeys within the validity period of the pass by paying a one-time pass. Besides being economical, these passes also free up travelers from the hassle of buying tickets each time they want to travel.

By Bus

There is highway bus service between Osaka and Kii-Tanabe. The bus journey takes 3.5 hours and costs approximately 3,000 Yen.

Kii-Tanabe is a pretty coastal town on the western edge of the Kii peninsula that overlooks the Pacific Ocean. It has a population of about 70,000 inhabitants, and has a generally pleasant climate with an average annual temperature of 16.6 °C, high rainfall of around 2,350 mm per year.

The word Kumano derives from the Kumano region, located in the Kii peninsula. The region is mountainous, and a river, also called Kumano, flows through it.

Kumano is also used to refer to the ancient religion practiced in this region, the Kumano religion.

An ancient, syncretic Japanese religion that combines Buddhism with animistic and nature-worshiping elements of pre-Buddhist Japan. Kumano is believed to be one of the oldest indigenous religions of Japan. (Buddhism arrived in Japan only in the 6th AD, from India, via China and Korea )

The word Kodo (Kodō is , in fact, the correct spelling. See the fun fact section below) in Japanese means “the old ways” or “the old paths”.

This has a double meaning, in that it refers to two things:

1. The temporal age of the Kumano pilgrimage trails, dating back almost 1,200 years, and

2. To the fact that the Kumano shrines are dedicated to pre-Buddhist, indigenous deities of Japan, and thus represent the older way of worshiping in Japan.

Fun Fact: When transliterating Japanese words to English, the diacritic mark placed above a letter can drastically change its meaning. For instance,

Kodō, with a single macron stress mark over the letter o means the old path, as in Kumano Kodo. However, for the sake of simplicity, we’ve simply written it as Kodo in this guide.

Kōdō, with two macron stress marks over each of the two Os refers to the art of appreciating incense. It is considered as one among the three Japanese arts of refinement, the others being Ikebana, or the art of flower arrangement, and chadō, or the Japanese art of tea ceremonies.

Kodo, with no macron stress marks, means “heartbeat”.

Due to its altitude of between 1,000m to 2,000m (3,280 to 6,561 ft), and the fact that it is close to the ocean, the Kumano Kodo trail is a great year round destination. The altitude is not high enough to render it too cold and snowy in the winter, nor too low to make it unbearably hot in the summer.

That said, there are certain times of the year when hiking Kumano Kodo is more popular than others.

Best Season

Spring (March-May) and Fall (October-November)

Spring

Spring temperatures range from mild to warm, with daytime highs averaging between 15°C to 20°C (59°F to 68°F). Rainfall is moderate, so be prepared for occasional showers, especially in April and May.

Spring is the time for cherry and plum blossoms, and the three Kumano shrines are lined with cherry trees that come to life with vibrant colors. At the Kumano Nachi Taisha shrine, in whose backdrop is the Nachi waterfall located, a cherry blossom festival is held each year in mid-April. It features an exquisite dance by shrine maidens wearing hair pins of cherry blossoms.

Given the great weather, the beauty of cherry blossoms, and the associated festivities, spring is the perfect time to hike the Kumano Kodo.

Since this is also the peak time, expect larger than usual footfall. However, the crowds are never unmanageable. Since accommodations are likely to fill up quickly in this season, it is advisable to book well in advance.

Autumn

Autumn temperatures are also mild and pleasant, with daytime highs ranging from 15°C to 20°C (59°F to 68°F) and cooler evenings. Rainfall is lower than in summer, although occasional showers are still possible. Clear skies and crisp air make for excellent hiking conditions.

Since fall is the season of Japan’s spectacular fall foliage, the forests along the Kumano trail come alive in a burst of colors. The sights in Autumn are no less stunning than those in spring. The footfall, however, is a little less than in spring.

Shoulder Season

Summer (June to September) and Winter ( December to February)

Summer

Summer temperatures can range from warm to hot, with daytime highs reaching 25°C to 30°C (77°F to 86°F) or higher, particularly in July and August. Humidity levels can be high, and afternoon showers and thunderstorms are common, so be prepared for sudden changes in weather.

Summer also sees a fair amount of footfall as it coincides with a large number of tourist arrivals elsewhere in Japan.

Winter

Winter temperatures can vary widely depending on elevation, with daytime highs ranging from 5°C to 10°C (41°F to 50°F) in the lowlands and dropping below freezing at higher elevations.

Snowfall along the trail is rare, but hikers should still be prepared for icy trails and challenging conditions. The higher mountain peaks do occasionally receive snow, and this only enhances the charm of the hike, which is at its most serene in the winter.

Winter also sees the fewest visitors along the Kumano Kodo Trail, making it an excellent choice for those seeking solitude and tranquility. However, some accommodations and services may be closed or operating on reduced hours during the winter months, so plan accordingly.

There are 4 major routes of the Kumano Kodo trail. These are:

1. Nakahechi Imperial Route
2. Kohechi Mountainous Route
3. Ohechi Coastal Route
4. Iseji Eastern Route

1. Nakahechi Imperial Route

This is the most popular route used by pilgrims. In the olden days, it was the route preferred by members of the imperial family, which is how it got its name.

The Nakahechi route connects all the three Kumano Sanzan shrines — Kumano Hongu Taisha, Kumano Hayatama Taisha and Kumano Nachi Taisha.

This route starts at Takijiri and heads north east, passing through the communities of Takahara and Chikatsuyu towards Tsugizakura-oji.

Pilgrims can then take a route that passes through the famous Yunomine Onsen with its therapeutic hot springs and Tsuboyu Bath which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. From here, they can proceed to the Kumano Hongu Taisha, the first and most important of the three Kumano shrines.

After paying homage here, the custom was to take a boat down the Kumano river to Kumano Hayatama Taisha. From here, pilgrims would move on towards Kumano Nachi Taisha, famous for its Nachi waterfall, the tallest single drop waterfall in Japan with a drop of 133 meters.

Thus the circuit of visiting the three shrines would be complete.

Quick Facts

Starting Point: Takijiri-oji / Kii Tanabe

Distance: 65-70 kms (40-43 mi)

Daily Distance Walked: Can vary from 12 to 22 kms ( 7.5 to 13.5 mi) depending on the number of days available and the accommodations chosen.

Time Needed: The entire circuit can be completed in 7 days, out of which 5 days while the other two days would include arrival and departure days.

Difficulty Level: Moderate to strenuous, recommended for active hikers

Highest Point: 868m (2,847 ft)

2. The Kohechi Mountainous Route

The Kohechi Mountainous route is the most difficult, and the least traveled route among the 4 Kumano trails.

The route starts at Koyasan, also known as Mount Koya, one of the most sacred sites in Japan. It is the headquarters of the Koyasan sect of Shingon Buddhism, or Japanese esoteric Buddhism.

Mount Koya itself is an 800 m (2,624 ft ) plateau, surrounded by 8 mountain peaks so that it resembles a lotus in bloom. It ends at the Kumano Hongu Taisha after passing through the beautiful Totsukawa Onsen, a charming hot springs town situated beside the Kumano river.

To reach Koyasan, travelers need to take the Nankai Koya Line train from Osaka to Gokurakubashi, then take a cable car to Koyasan.

The route crosses three mountain passes of over 1,000 m (3,280 ft) in altitude. From December to March, these passes often receive snow, which can lead to the closure of the route. Therefore it is best to avoid this route during this season.

In the olden days, this route was used by Buddhist monks Koyasan to reach Kumano Hongu Taisha.

Most of the signage along the way is in Japanese. There are also very few accommodations available.

That said, the views along the way are among the most scenic of all the routes.

On the whole, this is a difficult route recommended only for experienced hikers.

Quick Facts

Starting Point: Koyasan

Distance: 65 kms (40 mi)

Daily Distance Walked: Can vary from 15 to 19 kms ( 9 to 12 mi) depending on the number of days available and the accommodations chosen.

Time Needed: 4 days.

Difficulty Level: Strenuous, recommended only for active hikers

Highest Point: 1,344 m (4,409 ft) at Obako Peak

3. Ohechi Coastal Route

The Ohechi Coastal route starts from Kii Tanabe and runs southwest along the coast of the Kii Tanabe, offering scenic views of the Pacific Ocean. This route was traditionally used by the lay people of Japan, along with artists and writers owing to its scenic beauty. However, the construction of modern roads along the coast have, to some degree, impacted the views on offer along this route today.

Unlike the previous two routes, this route goes to the Kumano Nachi Taisha, without passing through the Kumano Hongu Taisha.

Quick Facts

Starting Point: Kii Tanabe

Distance: 92 kms (57mi)

Daily Distance Walked: 19 to 35 kms (12 to 22mi)

Time Needed: 4 days.

Difficulty Level: Easy to Moderate

Highest Point: 450 m (1,476 ft) at Agotsujimatsu Pass

4. Iseji Eastern Route

At 170 kms (105 mi), the Iseji Eastern Route is by far the longest of all the Kumano Kodo trails. Although doing the entire trek can take up to two weeks, many people prefer to trek only certain sections of this route as several trailheads are close to train stations.

Several sections of the route also run through modern cities that fall along the way.

The Iseji route begins at the Ise Jingu, or the Grand Shrine of Ise, a complex of Shinto shrines spread out over an area the size of Paris that is also called the “soul of Japan” due to its central importance in Shintoism. The shrine is patronized by the imperial family of Japan, and its head priest or priestess is always a member of the royal family.

The complete route can roughly be divided into three sections — North, Central, and South.

North Section ~ 70 Kms (43.4 mi)

This section starts at the Ise Jingu shrine and heads in a south westerly direction. The terrain is mostly flat with the landscape consisting of rice paddies and rivers.

Central Section ~ 75 Kms (47 mi)

This is a popular section as it has several mountain passes, inlets, bays, and beaches. It also offers spectacular views of the Pacific Coastline.

South Section ~ 25 Kms (15.5 mi)

This section splits off into two routes — a main coastal route and a mountain route.

The main coastal route passes through the Shichirimihama beach and ends at the Kumano Hayatama Taisha shrine.

The mountain route passes through the spectacular one-thousand terraced rice paddies Maruyama Senmaida, before ending at the Kumano Hongu Taisha.

Quick Facts

Starting Point: Ise Jingu

Distance: 170 kms (105 mi)

Daily Distance Walked: 19 to 35 kms ( 12 to 22 mi)

Time Needed: 14 days for the entire route, though smaller sections can be done in fewer days

Difficulty Level: Moderate

Highest Point: 650 m (2,132 ft) at Yakiyama Pass

The Kumano Kodo trail is unique among multi-day hikes in that it doesn’t require camping. Since it is well established as a pilgrimage route for well over a 1,000 years, there are several accommodation options in traditional Japanese inns known as Ryokans and Minshukus.

Western style hotels are available in the larger towns such as Kii-Tanabe and Koya.

1. Nakahechi Imperial Route

Since this is the most popular route, there are plenty of accommodations available at the following villages/settlements along the way:

• Takahara
• Chikatsuyu
• Tsugizakura/Nonaka
• Hongu area (Hongu village, Yunomine Onsen, Kawayu Onsen)
• Koguchi
• Nachisan
• Kii-Katsuura

2. Kohechi Mountainous Route

This route has fewer accommodation options. However, several of these are situated near picturesque onsen hot springs. Accommodations on this route are available in the following settlements:

• Koyasan
• Omata,
• Miura-guchi,
• Totsukawa Onsen
• Hongu area (Yunomine Onsen, Kawayu Onsen & Wataze Onsen)

3. Ohechi Coastal Route

This route has several towns connected by train stations, so there is no shortage of places to stay. Hikers can even buy up essential supplies from these towns, unlike the previous two routes, which only had small settlements along the way.

Good accommodation can be found in the following towns:

• Kii-Tanabe
• Shirahama
• Susami
• Mirozu
• Kushimoto
• Kii-Katsuura

4. Iseji Eastern Route

Iseji has several large towns along the way and there is no dearth of places to stay. Most people break up their journey by taking trains to the next town. You can find good places to stay depending on how you plan your journey

How Long Does the Kumano Kodo Walk Take?

The Kumano Kodo walk can take anywhere between 4 to 14 days depending on the route taken. The most popular route is the Nakahechi Imperial route, which can be completed within 7 days.

The Iseji Eastern Route is the longest route, which, if followed completely, can take up to 14 days.

How Difficult Is Kumano Kodo?

Kumano Kodo is a hike of moderate difficulty.

The highest point on the popular Nakahechi Imperial Route is at 868 m (2,847 ft).

However, the Kohechi Mountainous Route is recommended only for experienced hikers as it has several mountain passes of over 1,000 m altitude. The highest point on this route is the Obako Peak at 1,344 m (4,409 ft).

What Kind of Trees Are Found on the Kumano Kodo Hike?

The most common tree varieties found on the Kumano Kodo hike are tall Japanese cedar trees that grow up to 70 m ( 230 ft) in height, along with cypress, camphor trees, and bamboo groves.

In addition to these cherry trees are planted all around the major shrines. These trees blossom in April.

There are also forests of silver fir, Magnolia Sieboldi, along with Japanese black pine that are planted along the coast to act as wind breakers.

The Nachi Primeval forest is a protected forest extending for 33.5 hectares close to the Nachi waterfall that has been protected since ancient times. This untouched forest contains a large number of trees of various species. The company of a tourist guide is required to enter this forest.