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My Dream Cycle Tour – Fort Kochi

Someone asked me what’s your dream bike tour route like? I pondered for a while and couldn’t single one out. Its not because I don’t have a dream biking holiday in mind but because I had too many dream bike tour routes on my mind, so I struggled to come up with a single one.

What attracts me to bike touring is that it enables me to see and enjoy the everyday experiences, which might be missed out when travelling and visiting the usual tourist spots. So, to go on a cycling holiday where I get to take in the best experiences like a local is always the dream for me.

If I had to come up with my dream Kerala biking holiday, I will start from where all it started,  Fort Kochi. Once upon a time, Fort Kochi was a strategic port city. So much so that it was invaded by three different European colonial powers. Fort Kochi is now less contested, yet the European  are still here, in the form of tourists this time around.

I love the ancient port city of Fort Kochi for three reasons – the cultural harmony; the hidden by-lanes here that are bustling with life; and finally, the not-to-be-missed street-food joints.

Having lived in Fort Kochi for an year, if you ask me, Where would you take a friend if he/she has only a day to experience Fort Kochi? Well, here it is, the best bike tour of Kochi that I can think of, to begin this series of posts on my favorite parts of cycle touring Kerala.

Fort Kochi-Copyright Art of Bicycle Trips-Kerala Cycling Holidays

Wake up little early in the morning, say by 6:30am, to bike towards the Fort Kochi beach promenade. Near the River road, where the massive Chinese fishing nets emerge in front of your eyes, there is “Achu ikka’s” chai(tea) shop on four wheels, which serves only breakfast.”Ikka” means elder brother, commonly used among the Muslim community.

Have a chai and walk towards the most active area of this beach pathway, the “Fish auction center”. Its a great sight to see fishermen bring in fresh catch and auction it so quickly. You can even bid on fresh catch here and take it with you for a delicious seafood based lunch or dinner later.

We can then walk further along the beach, taking a loop next to the historic buildings, bungalows, oldest European church in India and huge Raintrees. We are now back to Achu ikka’s chai shop for the breakfast. Pick from Pathiri(fried rice cake) or Puttu(steamed rice cake) with meat curry gravy.

Then bike towards Mattancherry, snaking through inner lanes of Calvetty community, watching as the community comes to life in the morning hours.

Mattanchery’s Dutch Palace is up next, past traditional spice storehouses and the Jew town after which we reach the 400+ years old Venkitachalapathy temple.

Here in the mornings, it is common to see people from different faiths going to the temple, the church or the synagogue respectively. The faith that people have is admirable. After circumnavigating the temple walls and passing through little Brahmin communities, we ride towards Dhobi Khana to see the washermen wash, dry and iron clothes. After riding back to Fort Kochi, we reach an art café to have a black coffee and perhaps a second breakfast, if you have a big appetite. I always do.

Fort Kochi-Copyright Art of Bicycle Trips-Kerala Cycling Holidays

For lunch, we bike to Haneef ikka’s restaurant for the one and the only one item on menu – “Biriyani.”

This restaurant opens only for lunch and the Beef Biriyani here is my favorite. For me, a Biriyani here is never complete without a fruit ice-cream milk shake from cool-bar across the road. Cool bars are a popular phenomenon in India where the heat catches up with everyone come summer. Milkshakes & ice creams are consumed copiously to overcome this and hence, cool-bars!

Then, we bike to Dutch Palace and the Synagogue and take in all great history here. One thing that will stand out after biking through Fort Kochi is the thirst and we can quench our thirsts with a sweet, cardamom lassi from the Gujarati community corner. By evening, we cycle to the beach and catch a glorious sunset as we relax our weary legs. Afterwards, we can ride some more.

Fort Kochi-Copyright Art of Bicycle Trips-Kerala Cycling Holidays

Riding during the night is one of my favorite pastimes, especially in the brightly lit streets of Mattancherry where you can find people walking, shopping and chatting till midnight.

We ride to the Konkani community corner and savor delicious homemade dosas and idlis with hot, spicy chutney and a refreshing tea.

I’ll head off on a ride on that note for now. I will continue from Fort Kochi in the next post of this series where I will take you to countryside trails that surround the famous backwaters of Kerala.

Author: Dibin

Editor: Ashwini

Note: This post is first in a series of posts that describes my dream cycle tour route in Kerala. Read the second part on cycling around Kerala’s backwaters here and the third part on cycling Munnar’s tea gardens here.

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Meet Your Bike Tour Crew – Pankaj

Name: Pankaj Mangal

From: Jaipur

Based in: Bangalore

Rides: Surly Long Haul Trucker

Eats: Ker Sangri, a spicy Rajasthani delicacy made with yoghurt, beans and berries

Reads: William Blake’s The Marriage of Heaven and Hell, AF Schumacher’s Small is Beautiful

Drinks: Barley beer unique to Sikkim in North – East India

Loves: Having piping hot ‘chai’ tea at villages along Indian roads

Dreams: To make villages self-sufficient

Superpower: Crayons! Go figure!

Once upon a time: He suffered through the pains of studying Engineering and oh wait, a Masters of Business Administration too!

Believes in: Ethical living

Bucket list: Arunachal Pradesh in North East India, Bolivia and wait for it… Turkmenistan

Tips: Play by the rules

Ask me about: India and South East Asia bike tour expert

Contact: pankaj(at)artofbicycletrips(dot)com

Find me on: Twitter | Facebook

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Beware of Unethical Bicycle Trips Operator in Kerala

Art of Bicycle Trips (ABT) has been offering bicycle trips in Kerala directly to visitors since 2012-13. Back then, there were no Indian companies offering day tours or classic tours for visitors who wished to cycle here in India.

Today, one can choose from many options from a number of operators who run tours in Kerala. If you are considering the cycle tour operators available in Kerala today, we suggest that you be highly aware of one other company with offerings similar to ours.

Our experience has shown that the person who owns and runs this one particular bicycle trips company in Kerala, got his start by stealthily using intellectual and digital property that belongs to Art of Bicycle Trips. The said former ABT guide exploited the goodwill in the industry for our company to further his own agenda and continues to use ABT property and imitates our every move to this day.

Imitation might be a form of flattery but we hope you watch out when it comes to choosing your cycle tour operator in Kerala, because as the American jazz musician, Wynton Marsalis would put it, “Ethics are more important than laws.”

For more information about cycling tours in Kerala, please write to us at classic(at)artofbicycletrips(dot)com or come, see us at the our store in Fort Kochi, Kerala.